王郡侠,黄莉茜,俞建勇
WANG Jun-xia1,2,HUANG Li-qian1

• 1:东华大学纺织学院
• 2:纺织面料技术教育部重点实验室
• 3:东华大学研究院

摘要(Abstract)：

就新型假捻变形纱针织物的光泽、基本力学性能、悬垂性和热湿舒适性进行了较为全面的研究,并通过与棉织物进行对比分析,对新型假捻变形纱织物的仿棉效果作出了评价。试验结果表明:新型假捻变形纱织物与棉织物相比,正反射光强和漫反射光强较大,对比光泽度较大,具有较高的光泽度值;从基本力学性能测试结果上看,新型假捻变形纱织物的弯曲刚度、弯曲滞后量、剪切刚度、剪切滞后量、压缩比功小于棉织物,而其压缩功回复率大于棉织物,说明新型假捻变形纱织物的柔软性、成形性和弹性回复能力较棉织物好,但蓬松性不及棉织物;新型假捻变形纱织物的保暖性和透湿性能低于棉织物,透气导湿性能好于棉织物,两种织物的接触冷暖感相近。
In this paper,the properties of knitted fabric made of the newly false-twist textured polyester yarn,including luster,mechanical properties,drapery and comfort are comprehensively studied.The properties are then compared with those of cotton fabric,the cotton-like effects of the fabric are thus evaluated.The results show that the knitted fabric made of the newly false-twist textured polyester yarn has better luster than the cotton fabric since it has stronger objective gloss,diffuse reflection and contrast gloss.The main method to improve the luster of polyester fabrics is reducing the reflectivity which relates to the lower wavelength light of the fabrics.From the basic mechanical property testing,it is found that the bending and shearing rigidity,bending and shearing hysteresis,compression ratio work of the newly false-twist textured polyester fabric are lower than the cotton fabric but the resilience of compression is higher than cotton fabric.So the softness,formability and elastic recovery of the newly false-twist textured polyester fabric are better than the cotton fabric but the bulkiness is less than cotton fabric.The newly false-twist textured polyester fabric exhibits better wicking but poorer vapor permeability and warmth.These two kinds of fabrics have the similar warm-cool contact feeling.This paper provides guidance for the development of cotton-like filament textiles.

关键词(KeyWords)： 新型假捻变形纱;针织物;仿棉性能;评价
newly false-twist textured polyester yarn,knitted fabric,cotton-like property,evaluation

Abstract:

Keywords:

基金项目(Foundation):

作者(Author): 王郡侠,黄莉茜,俞建勇
WANG Jun-xia1,2,HUANG Li-qian1

DOI: 10.16090/j.cnki.hcxw.2012.12.011

参考文献(References)：

• [1]王府梅.日本新合纤的风格性能、发展过程及技术特征[J].中国纺织大学学报,1998,24(1):102-104.
• [2]任婉婷.新型超仿棉涤纶的产业化研究[J].纺织导报,2011(2):25.
• [3]张守运.涤纶仿棉丝假捻变形工艺探讨[J].合成技术及应用,2007,22(2):57-58.
• [4]王显楼.假捻变形丝的结构和性质[J].金山石油化工化纤技术,1983(3):19-25.
• [5]张兴邦.新型仿棉假捻变形纱的结构和基本性能[J].上海纺织科技,2012(3):49-51.
• [6]尹传胜,李涛.分光光度技术的原理和应用[J].医疗装备,2006,(7):17-18.
• [7]姚穆,吕明哲,蒋素婵.纺织品光泽评定的研究(英文)[J].西北纺织工学院学报.2001,15(2):70-76.
• [8]王雪梅,李进进.浅谈织物服用性能测试和研究[J].印染助剂,2010,27(5):39-46.
• [9]于伟东,储元才.纺织物理[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2001:270-272.
• [10]邢孟秋,宋月芬,梁志云,等.影响纱线芯吸因素的探讨[J].中国纺织大学学报,1997,10(5):66-69.