秋冬新型系列毛纺面料设计与开发Design and Development of New Series Woolen Fabrics in Autumn and Winter
赵伟
ZHAO Wei
摘要(Abstract):
首先从原料选择、纱线结构设计、织物结构等方面剖析了毛纺面料的开发途径,然后结合市场调研及流行趋势设计了6款新型秋冬毛纺面料,主要采用毛/涤、毛/黏胶纤维不同混纺比例原料,计算了6种不同毛纺面料的上机规格参数,如:织造缩率、染整缩率、匹长、幅宽、经纬密度、总经根数等,最后从织物图案、织物风格、织物主题等方面深入分析了秋冬毛纺面料的流行趋势,为更广泛开发此类织物提供了参考。
First, the development ways of woolen fabric from the aspects of material selection, yarn structure design and fabric structure were analyzed. Then combined with market research and trend, six new autumn and winter wool fabrics were designed. Different wool/polyester, wool/viscose fiber blended proportion of raw materials were adopted. Six different computer specifications parameters of wool fabrics were calculated, such as: weaving to dyeing and finishing, shrinkage, piece length, width, warp/weft density, total root number, etc. Finally, the trend of wool fabric in autumn and winter was analyzed from the aspects of fabric pattern, fabric style and fabric theme, which provided a reference for the wider development of such fabrics.
关键词(KeyWords):
毛纺面料;开发途径;工艺参数设计;流行趋势
woolen fabric;development approach;process parameter design;popular trend
基金项目(Foundation):
作者(Author):
赵伟
ZHAO Wei
DOI: 10.16090/j.cnki.hcxw.2020.06.012
参考文献(References):
- [1]季萍.毛纺工艺与设备[M].北京:中国纺织出版社, 2018.
- [2]关芳兰,夏婧菁.羊毛织物数码印花工艺研究[J].毛纺科技, 2009,37(3):31-34.
- [3]车卫东,滕雪梅.浅谈服装材料创意设计[J].纺织导报, 2016(7):82-84.
- [4]刘丽艳,查神爱,韩晨晨,等.毛纺库存面料的风格再设计与二次开发[J].毛纺科技, 2018, 46(11):5-8.
- [5]侯翠芳.织物组织分析与应用[M].北京:中国纺织出版社, 2010.
- [6]陈慧.毛纺面料特性对服装设计的影响[J].毛纺科技, 2016, 44(8):48-50.
- [7]赵先丽,周庆荣,陶丽敏,等.冷感深色精毛纺面料的开发与生产[J].毛纺科技, 2014, 42(5):6-8.
- [8]唐静.毛纺面料向轻薄舒适时装化发展的途径[J].毛纺科技, 2005,33(9):54-55.
- [9]陈磊,潘红,张荣.从2019秋冬纱线与面料展会看纺织品发展新趋势[J].浙江纺织服装技术学院学报, 2019(12):6-8.
- [10]陈雪凤,陈尚斌.中国面料发展趋势小谈[J].西部皮革, 2018(4):80-80.